Kilkieran is just two kilometres from Ahenny, both are within sight of storied Slievenamon and on slopes below a quiet country road. Both have primary examples of early Irish high crosses of the Ossory Group.
Ahenny’s is said to be the more aesthetically pleasing but I preferred Kilkieran. Ahenny has little beyond its crosses but at Kilkieran there are all the signs of a once vibrant community.
Its name indicates a famous founder, in this case Kieran of Saigir, one of the pioneer of the Irish Church. Two possible sites are suggested there for his early church. There is also a holy well in his name, an ancient water font (good for curing headaches) and an intriguing collection of ancient stones including a bullaun. Everything you would expect of an early Irish monastic settlement.
The crosses have survived best and today are the centre of attraction.
The West Cross is similar to Ahenny’s simple classical decoration, the only human figures are eight horsemen on the base.
The North Cross, the ‘skinny one’, is 3.5 meters high and has very short arms, no central ring and hatched decorations only on its west face.
The third or ‘Plain Cross’ lives up to its name. It has a prominent central boss and moulding that mimic the metalwork on earlier wooden crosses.
The three crosses, though close to each other, differ in shape and ornamentation. Was this because they represent different styles or stages of development? Did they share skills with nearby Ahenny? Why were there horsemen on the base of one cross?
These are just some of the questions that a quiet place like Kilkieran can put to visitors. The closer you get to them the more they have to tell you. As one historian said, ‘The Irish high crosses give up their mysteries one at a time’.
Now I have the rest of the ‘Ossory Group’ to learn a secret from. And this is just one small corner of Leinster!
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